Luxury Watch Brands Step Out of Their Comfort Zone

Businesses are allowing more of an expressive dress code, accepting brighter colors in formal situations. Not only are colorful dials aesthetically pleasing, but they create stunning photos.

Social media has played a larger role in luxury watch brands and trends. Even collectors are seeking timepieces that stand out from the crowd. This year, you can expect to see a lot of green (like the green Oyster Perpetual) and blue (like the turquoise Tiffany Oyster Perpetual) in spring and summer fashion.

So, is this the reason behind luxury brands taking a step out of their comfort zone: the popularity of louder accessories? It’s one thing to have a solid-colored dial and another to turn the watch’s face into a painting. Let’s take a look at some of the newest pieces that have enhanced the Swiss luxury watch brands we all know and love:

Rolex dropped a lot of upscale timepieces in their latest 2023 lineup. There is something for everyone including a gorgeous collection of gem-set Day-Dates to an eccentric new Oyster Perpetual. Vibrant and fun, the Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration’ and Day-Date 36 ‘Jigsaw Puzzle’ were the most controversial of the newfound pieces.

Alive with positivity, the artistry on the bubbled Rolex is a louder take on a usually quieter style from the brand. Its cheerful design combines the shades introduced in 2020: pink, turquoise, yellow, red, and green.

Sizes are available in 31, 36, and 41 mm cases. The domed bezel comes assembled with a screw-down caseback and winding crown, a twinlock double waterproofness system, and a three-piece solid link bracelet made of oystersteel. This collection has a bidirectional self-winding 3230 calibre, a 70-hour power reserve, and a water resistance of 330 feet.

The Oyster Perpetual is usually an entry-level Rolex for beginner investors. However, it is now proving itself to be more of a collector’s item. Produced in limited quantities, this candy simulation could be a playful niche that can transcend gender and age.

The Day-Date Puzzle is a superlative chronometer that comes in three combinations. (Everose gold with an orange dial, yellow gold with a turquoise dial, and white gold with a turquoise dial). The 36 mm case is assembled with a fluted bezel, president bracelet, and 10 baguette-cut diamonds circling the dial. Powered by a 3255 calibre, this timepiece has a 70-hour power reserve.

Like ‘The Celebration,’ it’s made of an oystersteel 904L alloy. Aerospace and chemical industries utilize this technology. It is exclusive to Rolex and corrosion-resistant.

Replacing the days of the week with inspirational words like ‘hope’ and ‘love’ as well as modernizing the days of the month with unique emojis is done with sheer boldness. Some may believe the emotional aspect of the dial is too expressive. Nonetheless, the Puzzle and President Day-Date will now and forever be a part of the same collection.

People enjoy the fame, quality, recognition, stability in value, and marketing when it comes to a signature Rolex. Perhaps while enthusiasts debate these cheery timepieces, the brand is sitting back and saying, ‘We can create whatever we want and don’t care what anyone has to say about it!’

Watches aren’t just for telling the time and passing down from generation to generation. They are also an expression of our personalities. Some customers may want to wear these new releases because they are lively, enjoyable, and full of energy.

As far as value is concerned, there are two possible ways it could go. Either the value will go down because the watch is too far away from what makes a Rolex feel like a classic, or the value will skyrocket because it’s so unique.

With something so out of the norm, investors may want that exclusivity for their watch collections. Perhaps it’s the latter, as Rolex continues to surpass their success. Maybe going outside of their comfort zone is exactly what they need to achieve this.

On the contrary, is their quest for excellence a watch dial comprised of chocolate candy sixlets? It’s something to think about, I suppose!

The ‘Rare Handcrafts 2023’ collection consists of 67 total pieces. In April 2023, collectors and the general public were able to see them at Patek Philippe’s headquarters. Amongst wristwatches, table clocks and pocket watches were also included in the mix.

Out of all the pieces, I thoroughly enjoyed reference #5189G with the red #2 racing car. It is inspired by the famous Nations Grand Prix held in Geneva from 1946-1950. The 1948 Nations Grand Prix is Limited Edition of 10 pieces.

The white gold case is endowed with a sapphire crystal caseback. It is also assembled with cloisonné and paillonne enamels for the landscape in the background. The pierced hands and strap recall a racing driver’s gloves, a distinctive touch. This timepiece is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding 240 calibre.

Patek Philippe is coveted because of the brand’s craftsmanship and reputation, which remains true with this new Calatrava collection. The precision, the pop of luxury from the gems around the bezel, and the realistic views of Monaco are thoroughly inviting.

Some may feel this should be on display rather than worn every day. Though, this mentality may go against saying that watches are a work of art. People wear their artwork all the time, so this should feel no different.

The investment value is another reason collectors might like this collection. Only a select few will ever get to own the #5189G. This is a grail watch for an avid F1 fan!

Richard Mille recently released their RM 88 Automatic Winding Tourbillon Smiley. According to Richard Mille, a smile symbolizes a universal language. Limited Edition to 50 pieces, the timepiece is assembled with 12 grade 5 titanium spline screws. It also has PVD treatment on the baseplate and bridges. Powered by the CRMT7 calibre, the RM 88 has a 50-hour power reserve.

“The Smiley, drawn by Franklin Loufrani just over 50 years ago, has become an established symbol in the collective consciousness. It serves as the embodiment of positivity, joy and sharing. It has played a major role at the heart of pop culture across several creative generations.” – Richard Mille

It's no secret that Richard Mille uses cutting-edge technology well. Not only are they instantly recognizable for their lightweight tonneau-shaped cases, but their statement and scarcity make them feel coveted. The attention to detail on the ‘Smiley’ is breathtaking and impressive; each detailed finish was polished and carried out by hand. With the brand striving for perfection, it’s impressive to see that there’s nothing they can’t imagine.

The one thing all these timepieces have in common is their avant-guard, colorful pattern, and notable execution. But what has led these brands to step so far out of their comfort zone? Are they looking to grow their fan base? Show more inclusivity for watch enthusiasts with brighter personalities that felt like the originals didn’t quite resonate with them? If the ladder is true, will these designs continue to be more intricate and artistic?

If I had to guess, I would say this would be a once-in-a-while opportunity. It would keep the value and limited edition aspect alive. With all the hype garnered around each piece, it would benefit the brands to continue making pieces that stand out, in addition to their classics. Once they have a taste of the rainbow, there’s no telling what adventures these fan favorites will go on.

I don’t think brands will ever entirely stray from their traditional material. That was what made them what they are today. I couldn't imagine Rolex completely letting go of an established Day-Date or Audemars Piguet completely forgoing the Royal Oak. The watch industry would probably go into a frenzy without any more Patek Philippe Nautilus’.

I think that we will see more of these types of pieces in the future, but only in small doses. This will help keep the value up. It shows that these already trustworthy brands aren’t afraid to add a bit of playfulness to their collections.

Looking for some lively dials of your own? Be sure to browse through our variety of brands!