Women’s Watches – A Tale Through Time

The story of women’s watches unfolds as a symphony of elegance and refinement, woven with threads of craftsmanship and sophistication. It began when pocket watches adorned the waistcoats of the elite and wristwatches were an emerging concept.

Watches were originally marketed as jewelry for women. During the early twentieth century, timepieces had art-deco faces, inlays of onyx or marcasite, and straps of black silk or satin. During World War I, soldiers and aviators began strapping pocket watches to their wrists. Because of this watch brands remarketed their pieces as a necessity to men’s uniforms to keep an eye on the time, thus shifting their marketing strategies.

This shift didn’t completely lead watch companies to stop their marketing to women. Instead, many watch companies adapted their marketing strategies to cater to both men and women. However, the war did largely impact the perception and acceptance of wristwatches as a practical and masculine accessory.

Let’s take a journey through the history of women’s timepieces and how women are changing the way horological masterpieces are marketed.

The inception of women’s watches can be traced back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries when wristwatches evolved from being primarily functional for men during World War I. Before this era, women’s timepieces were often limited to ornate pendant or brooch watches. As social norms evolved, so did women’s tastes and aspirations. Swiss watchmakers responded to this change by crafting delicate timepieces that adorned the wrists of high-society women. The pragmatic tool was transformed into an exquisite piece of jewelry.

As wristwatches became more accepted for men during the war, watchmakers recognized the opportunity to create elegant timepieces for women. The post-war period witnessed the emergence of women’s wristwatches characterized by delicate designs, adorned with gemstones and artistic craftsmanship. This marked the beginning of a distinct market for women’s watches, where form met function, and timepieces became both fashionable accessories and essential timekeeping devices for women across different social strata.

The Roaring Twenties saw the emergence of women’s watches as true works of art, with their ornate cases and intricate gemstone embellishments. Luxury brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels elevated their timepieces and marketed them for the cosmopolitan woman navigating the Jazz Age.

In the proceeding decades, the watchmaking world witnessed a kaleidoscope of innovations and styles. Women’s watches were petite and designed gracefully for women attending soirees and galas. Brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex embraced the change in the watch world by marrying precision with opulence.

In the latter part of the 20th century, independent watchmakers collaborated with renowned jewelers, and avant-garde design philosophies, and pushed the boundaries of craftsmanship. As we stepped into the 21st century, women’s watches began to stand as a symbol of empowerment and individuality. Limited editions, bespoke creations, and complications tailored their desires to define the landscape of modern timekeeping.

Over time, wristwatches became a unisex accessory, and watch companies targeted both genders in their marketing campaigns. Audemars Piguet’s latest campaign in partnership with Marvel spotlights comedian Kevin Hart, model Nour Arida, and musician Loyle Carner. Today, a watch doesn’t need to have that specific gender attached to it for it to be considered an heirloom transcending generations.

Covid-19 has not only affected the world but the watch world as well. There was a rise in social media to connect with loved ones during quarantine. Women with an interest in horology joined groups or pages that discussed their similar passion. It became relatable for a woman to see another woman posting their wrist shots.

Ladies Watch Club was founded on Instagram for women to share their passion for horology and discuss new watches. As of the beginning of 2024, the page has 12k followers. “While working in the watch industry back in the day,” says founder Ciobanu, “I understand that there were a lot of women watch lovers and collectors, but no one to connect them. So, that is why I came up with the idea of Ladies Watch Club. I launched it on Women’s Day in 2020.”

Brands noticed that while women were buying fewer watches than men (some averaging between 15-30 watches!), the total value of their watch collection was higher. With the flux of the economy, women wanted to invest their money in luxury items such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, or Patek Philippe. These investments will increase over time, and selling down the line will create capital for larger assets like homes or businesses.

Not every woman fits into the traditional delicate accessories that are pushed toward female clientele. So why are those the watches that brands keep marketing to that gender? Perhaps it’s simply because that’s what the brand is used to. Rolex is still going to outperform many watch brands in the industry whether someone purchases a Datejust or a Lady Datejust.

There is a trend in men’s watches gravitating toward statement pieces with gemstones. Women are leaning toward bigger, cleaner, and more simplified case designs. Not every man wants a 48 mm universally masculine watch, and not every woman wants a dainty one.

People are seeking out not what society wants them to wear, but what feels comfortable around their wrists. Thankfully, brands are realizing this change, marketing watches as watches without unnecessary labels. At Avi & Co., we have chosen to group our watches by brand, case size, and material type.

Avi & Co. aspires to have that generational aspect to it where you can pass down your watch and CEO Avi Hiaeve strives for his company to be the next generation for everyone. “I just wanted to have options for both men and women. I think if we inspire men, women deserve just as much.”

While watch designs encompass a wide range of features, the watch’s diameter is usually the first topic of discussion. The case size can range from petite to oversized, and this choice can make a substantial difference in how the watch appears and feels on your wrist. In today’s fashion, people are choosing watches based on their personalities, regardless of traditional gender associations. This shift in fashion inclusivity has led to breaking stereotypes when it comes to the watch’s diameter.

For men, choosing a smaller watch suggests a willingness to break free from traditional expectations and embrace a personally meaningful style. Small watches on men’s wrists are a symbol of self-confidence and a statement that style isn’t limited by gender. Celebrities such as Timothee Chalamet wear a 33 mm Jaeger LeCoultre and while he does have a slender stature, even actor Ben Affleck has been known to wear a smaller 25 mm Franck Muller.

Conversely, women wearing a larger watch diameter challenges the conventional notion of delicacy and femininity. Large watches can symbolize a woman’s boldness and independence. Celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Aniston are known for wearing 40 mm Rolex watches, and Charlize Theron wears a 44 mm Rolex.

There is a trend in men’s watches gravitating toward statement pieces with gemstones. A frequent shopper at Avi & Co., Floyd Mayweather enjoys how diamond-pave watches make him feel like royalty. Women are leaning toward bigger, cleaner, and more simplified cases. Luxury brands are realizing this change, marketing watches as watches without unnecessary labels.

Celebrities like Billy Porter, for example, would rock the #7010R-013 purple dial Patek Philippe because of his amazing fashion sense. Even though this timepiece was originally designed with a woman in mind, does that make this timepiece ‘feminine?’ Are all women stereotypically feminine? All men categorized masculine? Who is to say that either gender could dazzle a watch simply because they are confident and enjoy it?

Watch aficionados are seeking out not what society wants them to wear, but what feels comfortable around their wrists. At the end of the day, determine what speaks to you and you alone. Find your perfect fit by following these simple guidelines:

While both the Rolex Datejust and the Rolex Lady-Datejust belong to the same collection, they are designed with different wearers in mind, particularly concerning size and aesthetics.

The Rolex Datejust is a unisex timepiece, often considered a classic and versatile timepiece suitable for both men and women. This model typically comes in case sizes ranging from 36 mm to 41 mm. The design emphasizes a balanced and timeless appeal.

On the other hand, the Rolex Lady-Datejust was specifically crafted for women. It features a more petite case size, typically ranging from 26 mm to 31 mm. The Lady-Datejust often showcases more delicate details such as a refined dial, gemstone embellishment, and elegant bracelet. This was done to better suit the proportions of a woman’s wrist and to cater to a feminine aesthetic.

While both versions of this Rolex collection differ in case sizes, there is no reason why you can’t choose the timepiece that best suits your wrist as far as case size is concerned. Both collections share the same fundamental characteristics, such as the iconic date window at 3 o’clock and the signature Cyclops lens.

Women want to see more creativity and thoughtfulness in how brands market to women. Complications, varied cases, and unique designs are appealing. They’re looking for bolder statement pieces that match their personality.

While men-inspired fashion for women adopted the label ‘boyfriend,’ used in the industry to describe sporty and chunkier women’s timepieces, unisex watches are designed for anyone. With unisex fashion, women nor men should feel obligated to follow traditional watch-buying rules.

Brands launched women’s timepieces in a wider variety of case sizes, including ones only meant for men. Major brands such as Audemars Piguet recently released 37 mm, 39 mm, and 41 mm case sizes of the 50th Anniversary Royal Oak. None of these target a specific gender.

Most recently in 2023, Audemars Piguet debuted four new 37 mm gem-set Offshore watches to celebrate the collection’s 30th Anniversary. Multiple case materials were used including 18K pink gold and stainless steel. Each is powered by AP’s self-winding 2385 calibre. The diamond-set models have a pin buckle, and the baguette-set versions are fitted with an AP folding clasp.

Zenith’s Chronomaster Sports model introduced 39.5 mm and 41 mm cases in 2022. Advertisements featured both men and women. Even Breitling released their aviation-focused Navitimer model in 41 mm, 43 mm, and 46 mm cases.

While there are some women CEOs in the watch world (Harry Winston Inc., Piaget, Richemont Group, and Jaeger-LeCoultre), most boardrooms are still led by men. Brands with a male focus are striving to include more women in leadership roles and create more inclusive advertising campaigns. By pushing for more female ambassadors, their celebrity status could help influence the market more inclusively.

Avi & Co. has extensive knowledge of the wide variety of cases, shapes, and sizes of timepieces that may be suitable for your preference. We sell exclusive watch brands such as Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex. All watches are inspected by our in-house watch repairman, and they are guaranteed 100% fully functional and authentic. Every watch is backed by our worry-free, two-year warranty. If you are unsure of what size would best suit your wrist, our highly knowledgeable sales executives will be happy to go the extra mile to assist you.

Marketing watches as men’s or women’s is restrictive and outdated. 35% of Gen Z prefer not to be defined by gender. Eliminating labels will open the market and leave behind the stigma. People won’t feel uncomfortable when choosing a piece regardless of what they identify as.

Despite what some companies may make you believe, there is no rulebook on what watch you can begin or continue your collection with. Let Avi & Co. help you choose which luxury timepiece speaks to you.

As fashion continues to evolve and blur traditional boundaries, luxury timepieces offer a canvas for personal expression and self-identity. In the end, it’s not just about telling time but telling your story. Schedule an appointment and let us help you find the watch that you can wear with confidence.