Watch Bezels and Their Functions

 

Bezels, those rings surrounding the face of a watch’s case exterior, have a significant influence on the overall design and functionality of a timepiece. They secure and protect the crystal.

The fun thing about this particular part of a watch is that they have continuously evolved over the years. That status of a bezel stems from its unique and ever-growing designs and how it agrees with the dial. Whether you are interested in function or aesthetics, the bezel comes down to your preference, taste, and budget.

 

In short, a watch bezel is the ring that surrounds the crystal and dial at the core of a watch. Before we dive into a discussion of the different types of bezels and their functions, let’s make sure we are all on the same page with understanding what bezels are and how they work.

Watch bezels are typically made of either ceramic or metal. They can be the same material as the watch’s case and bracelet, or they can be made of something completely different. Different types of bezels have different looks and purposes – some are functional while others are more about decoration and aesthetic appeal.

Here are some general types of bezels that you will certainly see as you look for the perfect luxury watch to own…

Fixed Bezels: These bezels do not move. They are solely dedicated to protecting the crystal and dial of the watch. Fixed bezels are often more decorative in nature.

Rotating Bezels: These bezels do move. They are typically focused on function, although they are also attractive to the eye. Rotating bezels can be used to measure time, display dual time zones, check the cardinal direction, and so on. Unidirectional bezels rotate only counterclockwise. Bidirectional bezels rotate both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Elapsed Time Bezels: These types of bezels (which include the diving watch bezels we will discuss below) allow their wearers to count the minutes or seconds that have passed.

GMT Bezels: These bezels have 24-hour markings on them to allow the wearer to keep time in two time zones. While they are referred to as “GMT,” that second time zone does not have to be Greenwich Mean Time – your two time zones can be whatever you choose.

Compass Bezels: As the name suggests, these bezels have indicators showing North, East, South, and West.

Tachymeter Bezels: These complex bezels convert elapsed time into a rate, which can then be used by the wearer to calculate speed or distance. What a useful tool!

There are plenty of other bezel types out there as well, both functional and aesthetic. We will dive into a few of these bezel variations in more detail to showcase some of the most popular decorative and functional bezels in the horological world today.

 

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual first showcased fluted bezels in 1926. The designers created the bezel to screw into the middle case to help ensure waterproofness. Its gear-wheel appearance is most prominently found on Rolex pieces.

Today, the fluted approach is purely ornamental, and it's mostly seen on the Rolex Datejust, Day-Date, and Sky-Dweller. We love its versatility because it epitomizes the subtle look of quiet luxury without obviously showing off. However, it will hold your gaze once you have noticed the intricate design pattern of the fluting. While some consider a fluted bezel less versatile than a smooth bezel, it won’t show scratches as easily.

Smooth bezels weren’t as sought out by watchmakers and customers until the 1970s and 1980s. Rolex used to focus more on this type as it made for a sportier look. Depending on the specific model and year of production, the glass within a smooth bezel can be flat or domed. Craftsmen create them from stainless steel, gold (yellow, white, or rose), or platinum materials.

Almost all watch collections feature a model with an elegant smooth bezel. Its simple metallic ring blends into the overall design effortlessly. If you are looking for a more versatile, contemporary appearance, this should be your go-to.

While some argue that smooth bezels can show scratches more easily, there are plenty of watch designs on the market today made to prevent this exact occurrence. For instance, the brushed finish on the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch pictured above will make scratches much less apparent than they might be on a more polished bezel.

 

Watchmakers had to get creative during the quartz crisis in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning timepieces into jewelry was a great way to highlight the traditional horology of a simple timepiece by dressing it up. The impressive bling can range from rubies and sapphires to diamonds, making it the loudest of the bezels. Luxury brands that produce these expensive models include the Rolex Daytona Rainbow, Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4, and Cartier collections.

This design is perfect for aficionados that enjoy more of a lavish, tasteful statement. It’s for those who don’t shy away from chasing the exclusive. While these embellishments are on the pricier side, investing in a watch with a diamond bezel ensures that you own a piece of true luxury.

Tachymeter bezels didn’t appear on dials until the early 1960s, and they rose to fame in the late 60s and early 70s. The famous astronaut Neil Armstrong used his Omega Speedmaster to land Apollo 11 when the machinery on the spacecraft malfunctioned. For watch enthusiasts who love high-tech machinery and innovative complications, a watch with a tachymeter bezel is a must-have in your horological collection.

These speed-measuring rings are still in high demand. You can most commonly see them on the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster. While stopwatches are more common, the tachymeter bezel adds a stylistic element to a high-end watch.

Many believe that a chronograph without a tachymeter doesn’t seem to be a true chronograph. Others would disagree and say that a standalone chronograph is just as functional. What's your perspective?

The GMT bezel is great for an avid traveler and adventurous personality. It’s a watch style that matches any variety of outfits whether you are in the skies or not. The most coveted watch with this feature is the Rolex GMT-Master II line, which includes ever-popular and collectible bezel variations such as the Pepsi, Coke, Sprite, and Batman models. You can see this design worn by celebrities such as Roger Federer, Clint Eastwood, John Mayer, and Ben Affleck.

“GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time – but you are not limited to the current time in London. A watch with a GMT bezel can track the hour in multiple time zones anywhere in the world. Commonly seen with two colors to indicate the day and night, it’s a very easy-to-use bezel. Pilots have also overtly used it since the 1960s.

Dive watches can track elapsed time underwater. The first dive bezel was Rolex’s Zero-graph watch, which was produced in 1930. However, it didn’t enter the mass market until the 1950s. The luminous triangle or diamond markers help illuminate the time while underwater.

Remarkably, the watch can track the remaining air tank time for divers. A unidirectional function keeps the bezel from dislodging by accidental blows. This can also be operated with gloves on if anything needs adjusting.

There are two types of diving models: the count-up and the countdown. The count-up is more common and has a scale that goes from 0-60 to align the minutes in an hour. The countdown is similar, but the minute track goes from 60-0.

Perfect for the deep sea adventurer, the 1990s saw a sales increase of 20% for diving timepieces. The Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the most popular watches that features this type of bezel on the modern market.

Just as there are a wide variety of dials, materials, and straps, bezels come in all shapes and sizes. Other notable bezel types include the slide rule (which pilots commonly use to calculate airspeed, fuel consumption, and distance), compass (which functions the same way as the object), and ring command (which sets more complicated functions on Rolex Yacht-Masters and Rolex Sky-Dwellers).

Whether you are a successful businessperson, an adventurer, or a visionary, let the bezel on your luxury timepiece speak on your behalf. At Avi & Co., we have one the largest and rarest collections of luxury watches in our three showrooms, located in New York City, Miami, and Aspen. Our knowledgeable sales associates will make you feel right at home in our trendy, upscale boutiques.

Unsure which timepiece would look best on your wrist? Schedule an appointment and try them on in person! We look forward to making your shopping experience as smooth as a Rolex Daytona.