Watch Bezels and Their Functions

Bezels, those rings surrounding the face of a watch’s case exterior, have a significant influence on the overall design and functionality of a timepiece. They secure and protect the crystal.

The fun thing about this particular part is that they have continuously evolved over the years. Its status stems from its unique and ever-growing designs and how it agrees with the dial. Whether you are interested in function or aesthetics, the bezel comes down to your preference, taste, and budget.

The Oyster Perpetual first showcased fluted bezels in 1926. The designers created the bezel to screw into the middle case to help ensure waterproofness. Its gear-wheel appearance is most prominently found on Rolex pieces.

Today, the fluted approach is purely ornamental, and it's mostly seen on the Rolex Datejust, Day-Date, and Sky-Dweller. I love its versatility because it’s subtle enough without showing off. However, it will hold your gaze once you’ve caught its eye. While it’s less versatile than the smooth bezel, it won’t show scratches easily.

Smooth bezels weren’t as sought out by watchmakers and customers until the 1970s and 1980s. Rolex used to focus more on this type as it made for a sportier look. Depending on the specific model and year of production, the glass can be flat or domed. Craftsmen create them from stainless steel, gold (yellow, white, or rose), or platinum materials.

Almost all watch collections feature an elegant smooth bezel. Its simple metallic ring blends into the overall design effortlessly. If you are looking for a more versatile, contemporary appearance, this should be your go-to.

Watchmakers had to get creative during the quartz crisis in the 1970s and 1980s. Turning timepieces into jewelry was a great way to highlight the traditional horology of a simple timepiece by dressing it up. The impressive bling can range from rubies and sapphires to diamonds, making it the loudest of the bezels. Luxury brands that produce these expensive models include the Rolex Daytona Rainbow, Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4, and Cartier collections.

This design is perfect for aficionados that enjoy more of a lavish, tasteful statement. It’s for those who don’t shy away from chasing the exclusive. While these embellishments are on the pricier side, you can guarantee you own a piece of true luxury.

Tachymeter Bezels didn’t appear on dials until the early 1960s, and they rose to fame in the late 60s/early 70s. The infamous Neil Armstrong used his Omega Speedmaster to land Apollo 11 when the machinery on the spacecraft malfunctioned. While obsolete now, a watch and car enthusiast owning a watch that could measure a car’s average speed would be a dream come true.

These speed-measuring rings are still in high demand. You can most commonly see them on the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster. While stopwatches are more common, the tachymeter bezel adds a stylistic choice to a high-end watch.

Many believe that a chronograph without a tachymeter doesn’t seem to be a true chronograph. Others would disagree and say that a standalone chronograph is just as functional. What do you believe?

The GMT bezel is great for an avid traveler and adventurous personality. It’s a watch style that matches any variety of outfits whether you are in the skies or not. The most coveted is the Rolex GMT-Master II which consists of the ever-popular Pepsi bezel, Coke, Sprite, and Batman. You can see this design worn by celebrities such as Roger Federer, Clint Eastwood, John Mayer, and Ben Affleck.

GMT, also known as the Greenwich Mean Time, can track the hour in multiple time zones anywhere in the world. Commonly seen with two colors to indicate the day and night, it’s a very easy-to-use bezel. Pilots have also overtly used it since the 1960s.

Dive watches can track elapsed time underwater. The first dive bezel was Rolex’s Zero-graph produced in 1930. However, it didn’t enter the mass market until the 1950s. The luminous triangle or diamond markers help illuminate the time while underwater.

Remarkably, the watch can track the remaining air tank time. A unidirectional function keeps the bezel from dislodging by accidental blows. This can also be operated with gloves on if anything needs adjusting.

There are two types of diving models: the count-up and the countdown. The count-up is more common and has a scale that goes from 0-60 to align the minutes in an hour. The countdown is similar, but the minute track goes from 60-0.

Perfect for the deepsea adventurer, the 1990s saw a sales increase of 20% for diving timepieces. They are most often seen on the Rolex Sea-Dweller.

Just as there are a wide variety of dials, materials, and straps, bezels come in all shapes and sizes. Other notable bezel types include the slide rule (which pilots commonly use to calculate airspeed, fuel consumption, and distance), compass (which functions the same way as the object), and ring command (which sets more complicated functions on Yacht-Masters and Sky-Dwellers).

Whether you are a successful businessperson, an adventurer, or a visionary, let the bezel on your luxury timepiece speak on your behalf. At Avi & Co., we have one the largest and rarest collections in New York City and Miami. Our knowledgeable sales associates will make you feel right at home in our trendy, upscale showroom.

Unsure which timepiece would look best on your wrist? Schedule an appointment and try them on in person! We look forward to making your shopping experience as smooth as a Rolex Daytona.