Our Favorite Vintage Luxury Watches

Every savvy watch collector loves a vintage timepiece – but these watches can be difficult to find and verify on the secondary market. It’s also tough to determine which vintage watches are worth your while and which are better left in the past. Luckily, our team of horological experts at Avi & Co. is here to help. Explore our guide to vintage watches – plus find top leads to help you get your hands on one of these exclusive timepieces today.

The hardest part of putting together a list of vintage luxury watches is determining what officially qualifies as “vintage.” Ask ten different horological enthusiasts, and you are sure to get ten different answers. Some might say that any watch line that has been discontinued is now vintage. Others will choose a specific date, say, pre-1990s or 1980s and earlier.

Others still will reference a specific feature. For example, one could make the argument that watches with an acrylic crystal are vintage, whereas those that boast a sapphire crystal are “modern.” Some collectors would argue that anytime a watch has been superseded by a newer version, that first model becomes vintage.

Clearly, there is no one definitive answer when it comes to defining a vintage watch. With that in mind, we’ve put together this list to honor three principles: (1) every watch on this list has a rich history, (2) every watch line reference is at least 30 years old, and (3) you can still get your hands on these watches.

After all, what use is a collector's guide if collecting these watches is an impossibility? Read on to find out our favorite vintage luxury watch collections – plus, where you can get your hands on a timepiece from each collection today.

In some cases, the word “vintage” might be interchangeable with the word “old” – but that is not to say that vintage watches are damaged, dirty, or outdated. These timepieces represent a significant chapter in horological history, and that is far from the only benefit. There are numerous reasons to purchase a vintage watch, including…

Expressing Your Character: Any savvy watch aficionado who can get their hands on a rare, vintage timepiece is displaying their commitment to craftsmanship and tradition. When you wear a vintage watch, you are adding yet another chapter to the tales of these storied accessories, and you are showing off your taste, class, and sophistication as you do so.

Ease of Access: When you purchase a watch directly from the manufacturer, there are often countless hoops to jump through. For instance, a recent Richard Mille x McLaren Automotive collaboration required buyers to show proof of owning a McLaren vehicle in order to purchase the watch in the first place. When you shop for vintage timepieces on the secondary market, there is no such nonsense. Instead, you can get what you want when you want it… no years-long waiting lists and no required purchase history involved.

Investment Value: While it is certainly not a guarantee, there are many vintage timepieces that appreciate in value over time. A savvy watch collector and investor may be able to carefully select these pieces that will enhance the monetary value of their watch collection, should they ever want to resell or trade their timepieces.

Owning Horological Icons: In addition to showcasing your own style, owning a vintage timepiece allows you to stamp your name on an incredible piece of horological history. Anyone who has fallen head over heels in love with the world of watches can appreciate the importance of owning a timepiece that has made a significant impact in the horological sphere.

Not every vintage timepiece is one that you can find on the secondary market today – so in order to support your watch collection as best we can, we’ve compiled a list of iconic vintage timepieces that you can purchase here at Avi & Co.

There is no question that Rolex is king when it comes to the world of vintage watches – but there are plenty of other timepieces that have also made waves in horological history. Still, we would be remiss not to mention the Rolex Oyster Perpetual as a classic vintage timepiece that is a must-have addition to any collector’s watch box.

The Oyster Perpetual line first hit the market in 1931, and it combined two of Rolex’s most adept innovations: the waterproof Oyster case and the brand’s self-winding Perpetual movement. The 36 mm case size is typically considered the most evocative of the original Oyster Perpetual timepieces. The great news is that you can purchase a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch today in numerous different dial colors, textures, and features to enhance your collection.

While most vintage watches tend to be smaller in stature, the Breitling Navitimer is a notable exception to this rule. These watches were created between 1952 and 1954. They were targeted at pilots who needed the oversize faces to make the most of all the watches' chronograph features and complications.

Currently, the brand is onto the Navitimer 8 line, which launched in 2018. A Breitling Navitimer 8 watch is the perfect timepiece to harken back to the iconic original Navitimers without breaking the bank on a harder-to-find watch. Virtually every Breitling watch honors the tradition of aviation and sky travel, so if you or someone you know loves taking to the skies, this is the ideal watch.

We can’t help but include another Rolex on our list – and while there is much debate over the most iconic Rolex ever, the Datejust line has captured our hearts. These vintage timepieces showcase the perfect marriage of some of our favorite Rolex features ever: the stunning Jubilee bracelet and the coveted fluted bezel.

Like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the 36 mm silhouette of the Rolex Datejust is considered the most aligned to the original models. Models made in the 1990s are normally a bit larger, echoing the sportier and heftier trends of that decade, which we are now swinging toward again. The decade from which you choose a vintage Datejust can significantly impact its look.

Rolex’s GMT-Master II line is a favorite of celebrities and watch collectors around the world – but the true vintage watch to consider is the GMT-Master line. The brand started producing the GMT-Master II in the early 1980s, and continued making the original line alongside it until 1999. For the past 25 years, GMT-Master production has been discontinued, making these watches a coveted addition to many watch collectors’ inventories.

This gorgeous timepiece hails from 1984 but has been updated with the new “glossy” dial introduced in 1986. The watch’s dial exhibits minor hairline scratches, which actually contributes to a highly sought-after "spider dial" look, an aesthetic that has gained considerable popularity. If you’re looking for a vintage watch that is eminently wearable for everyday life, the Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi is the one for you.

When we talk about vintage watches, we simply cannot leave Patek Philippe off the list. While the brand has introduced countless incredible lines over its nearly 200 years of existence, the Patek Philippe Calatrava stands out as a favorite among vintage watch collectors.

The Calatrava line first hit the market in 1932, and has since become a favorite of celebrities, socialites, and even European royalty. Queen Elizabeth II was a proud Calatrava owner, as was renowned Spanish artist Pablo Picasso, who was frequently photographed wearing the piece. If you are looking for vintage flair with your Calatrava, choose a yellow gold option that evokes its original construction circa the 1930s.

One of our criteria for determining what makes a “vintage” watch was establishing its importance in the history of horology. With the OMEGA Speedmaster, its historical relevance is undeniable. This watch was the only timepiece certified and tested by NASA for use on the moon landing and other missions to outer space. During the 1969 moon landing, all three astronauts aboard NASA’s Apollo 11 spaceship wore an OMEGA Speedmaster.

Since that mission, the OMEGA Speedmaster has been dubbed the “Moonwatch,” and OMEGA continues to celebrate this timepiece’s lunar history today. The brand is also renowned for countless other accomplishments, including being the singular official timekeeper of the Olympic Games for nearly 100 years (they earned that title in 1932).

As you look for the perfect vintage timepiece to complete your collection, keep Avi & Co. in mind. We are a trusted secondary market retailer specializing in the world’s most elite timepieces, including Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Richard Mille watches.

We have three upscale showrooms located in Manhattan, Miami, and Aspen. Schedule your appointment today to visit us in person and try on the watch of your dreams!