The White Metals Dominating the Luxury Watch Market

White metals are making a comeback in the world of luxury watches in a big way. White gold, stainless steel, and platinum watches are constantly spotted on the wrists of celebrities, fashion icons, and high-class individuals who are working, socializing, and making moves in style. 

As you consider watches in these three metals, learn more about the pros and cons of each, top watch styles that come in prestigious white metals, and which option might be best for you. Above all, remember that trying on a watch for yourself is the best way to find out if it aligns with your personal tastes. But for now, see why white metals are dominating the luxury watch game – and discover which horological craftsmen are making the most of this lasting trend. 

Novices in the watch world might assume that a white gold watch is made from silver – but silver is actually not a popular watch material due to its tendency to tarnish. White gold has proven to be a much more popular and lower maintenance option, and its status as a precious metal has elevated it to a high level of desirability. 

While yellow gold and rose gold have been dominating the luxury watch market for a few years, icy and sleek white gold watches are certainly making a comeback these days. Yellow and rose gold gained popularity due to their unique nature: A stainless steel watch cannot mimic those colors. Some people believe that white gold can easily be mistaken for stainless steel, but anyone who takes a close look will notice that white gold has a luminescence all its own. 

Many watches that are offered in stainless steel finishes are also made using white gold, which has an elevated look as a precious metal. White gold is also shinier and more reflective than platinum or stainless steel, and especially complements gems that catch the light, like diamonds that might be set into a watch’s band, bezel, or face. 

Many see white gold as a more understated choice than yellow or rose gold. Its versatility means that it can go with any ensemble and can easily be taken from casual to formal and from day to night. Watchmakers like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet are using white gold more and more, and the metal continues to assert its dominance in the world of luxury watches. It is clear that white gold watches are here to stay.  

When we think of precious metals, we typically think of gold, silver, and platinum. But there is another major player in the white metals game, and that is stainless steel. Traditionally, stainless steel was only used for tool watches or by more inexpensive brands – but during World War II, a shortage of precious metals led to heritage watchmakers turning to stainless steel to continue keeping up with production. 

In the 1970s, we were treated to some of the most lasting, luxurious stainless steel watches, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. While the use of stainless steel as a watch metal turned the world of haute horlogerie on its head, both the Royal Oak and the Nautilus remain premier models that continue to exude class and popularity today.

While stainless steel might be considered a cheaper material, Patek Philippe acknowledged that fact and simultaneously turned it upside down in its iconic 1976 ad for the original Nautilus watch. “One of the world’s costliest watches is made of steel,” the ad proclaims, prompting readers to wonder… How can that be? 

It’s true that stainless steel is significantly cheaper for a manufacturer to purchase than other popular white metals (such as white gold or platinum). However, its durability is a clear benefit. A stainless steel watch will not mar or scratch as easily as a gold watch, and stainless steel does not tarnish like silver. It is relatively comparable to platinum, on the whole. 

Further, to the untrained eye, stainless steel is virtually indistinguishable from silver or white gold. Ultimately, it is the craftsmanship that sets heritage timepieces such as those from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, or Rolex apart. 

When you purchase a luxury watch, you are not always paying for the base metal – first and foremost, the six-figure price tags you will see with many of these pieces are a result of the engineering finesses, complex capabilities, and attention to detail that goes into each of these timeless contraptions. 

In terms of the white metals on the watch market, platinum watches are some of the most expensive pieces available. While stainless steel watches are known for their durability, platinum watches can virtually match this characteristic and provide an upscale aesthetic that simply cannot be topped. Many heritage watchmakers create their ultra-luxurious models in platinum. 

For instance, many a Patek Philippe Grand Complications watch is made using platinum. These watches offer at least two complications – for instance, the 5520P-001 pictured below features the coveted “Travel Time” system that allows two time zones to simultaneously be displayed as well as a 24-hour gong alarm system, and a 30-second repeater. 

Of course, it is impossible to discuss high-end platinum watches without mentioning two premier Rolex models: the Rolex Day Date and the Rolex Daytona. Platinum is notoriously difficult to engineer – unless one is using the exact right tools, it is easier to displace than to remove platinum. For this reason, many experts will use the not-so-technical term “gummy” to describe this precious metal. This makes it even more impressive when brands like Rolex create masterpieces out of platinum. 

For Rolex, there is a subtle secret that alerts watch enthusiasts to a platinum watch (which helps these watches stand out from the brand’s stainless steel counterparts). Rolex reserves the “ice blue” dial color exclusively for its platinum watches. If you see a Rolex with an ice blue face, you can be sure that the watch is made from high-quality platinum. 

Two of Rolex’s premier platinum watches are the Day-Date and the Daytona. Neither all Day-Dates nor all Daytonas are made from platinum, but this moonlight-colored metal certainly suits these exclusive styles. 

The Rolex Day-Date was first introduced in 1956, and it was the first watch to present the days of the week spelled out. The latest edition to the collection, the Day-Date 40, is available in 18K yellow gold and in platinum – if you want a white metal watch, platinum is the right choice for you. The entire Day-Date collection has an emphasis on precious metals and combines technical excellence with the epitome of style and class. 

As for the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, this complex watch was introduced in 1963 and quickly became synonymous with high-performance motorsport – hence its namesake, the city Daytona, Florida. The Daytona International Speedway was the pinnacle of high-speed endurance and competition at that time.

The Rolex Daytona is available in a wide variety of case materials, including 18K white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold as well as stainless steel. The platinum edition comes equipped with an eye-catching ice blue dial and black bezel. 

Audemars Piguet has even reinvented the Royal Oak, traditionally a stainless steel watch, in platinum to appeal to high-class clientele looking to make waves with this classic, sporty watch.

For instance, take a look at this ultra-thin rendition of the Royal Oak, which boasts a platinum case and a sleek design in line with current trends. This is a unique and interesting watch, as most Royal Oak watches are still made from stainless steel. Another white metal that Audemars Piguet will occasionally use is titanium, which can also be found in the Royal Oak collection. 

Not sure which of these popular white metals is right for your individual tastes? There is nothing better than trying one of these exclusive watches on your own wrist – and at Avi & Co.’s three locations, you can do just that. Join us at our New York, Miami, or Aspen locations to explore white metal watches. 

When choosing a watch, trying it on for yourself is a must. You want to pay close attention to how it feels – do you like how heavy or light it is? Does it match your personal style? Can you see yourself getting use out of this marvel of engineering? Reach out to us today to schedule a time for your personalized watch appointment.